I am coming home
The World At War
I
remember vividly Amman in the 1970s. The kind of city, the kind of time, made
for storybook memories.
Quaint,
quiet, snail paced, a collage of leafy gardens, single storey houses of stone,
low rises so easy on the eye, middle class neighborhoods inches close to rich
ones, poor ones still not tucked away in the crevices of vacuums and divides—Amman
promised one long purr of a life.
If
I had to summarize it all in one word, if I had to choose one place that evoked
the temperament, the seeming possibilities of that era, faster than the flicker
of an eye I’d pick il Madineh, The Sports City For Youth. And I suspect on the
face of many Ammanis of my generation reading these words now there’s already
the faint shape of a smile.
In
summers that teased one’s yearning for eternities, the children of Amman’s rising
middle class flocked to the sprawling compound, which opened its doors in 1971,
to swim and play and chat and laugh. The pools, the squash and basketball courts,
the long stretches of green lawns, the cafeteria on the right for hummus, hot
dogs and French fries, the restaurant on the other side for adults, veal
escalope and chocolamu. The Royal Culture Center by night, the immense football
stadium for the big fights.
Il
Madineh is where my heart first fell hard in love, where I had my first
kiss behind the diving pool. It’s where I learned my best strokes, perfected my
ping pong ace, rolled on the grass every afternoon with a severe attack of the
giggles and sunbathed every morning on the Roman amphitheater-like steps, giddy
at the prospect that all will be well.
A
bubble? Nostalgic bourgeois mush? After
all, 1970-1971 was our bloody civil war. In the 1970s, Palestinian refugee
camps, factories of despair and fantastical dreams, were no less a fixture of
our landscapes than the ruins of old. These
were also the years when the state and the Muslim Brotherhood had just come
together openly to smother the leftist and secular pulse wherever it beat. This was
the decade that came on the heels of 1967 and the loss of the West Bank, Jerusalem
and Haram al Sharif. And so on and so forth.
We
were not oblivious to politics. How could we be? It ran even more
then than now in our veins. It kickstarted
the day in the kitchen and sealed it each evening in the living room.
But if il Madineh was a cocoon sown out of fibs and yarns, it didn’t feel like one in the ‘70s. It didn’t stand apart
from the rest of the city, alone and lonely. It might have been an oasis, but
in many ways Amman was too: efficient, ordered and orderly, breezy, unfettered,
unaffected. Simple. Sure, barriers and boundaries separated constituencies and
destinies, but they were less like walls and more like paravans.
The
complex itself was patiently conceived, well thought out, beautifully executed. It exuded hope, implied vision. By way of ambitions, it was King
Hussein at his most benevolent—certainly at his most intriguing. When he was
approached, in 1961, by a group of Jordan’s well to do requesting to offer him
a gift in celebration of his marriage to Princess Mona, he asked them to build
a sports city for Jordan's youth. And so they did, after a concerted
fundraising campaign within the business community.
The Diving Pool |
il
Madineh offered my generation a prototype of Jordan at its most open, spirited, accomplished. Looking back, it's very tempting to describe it as the bastard child of a fling between raw self-interests and grand intentions. But, in the 1970s, looking forward, its symbolism appeared innocent of such fly-by-night origins. What
I mean to say is that none of it was inevitable or foreordained. None of it!
Only in retrospect, as we add the pages of subsequent chapters, does it all
come full circle for us. No, we were not deceived in the 1970s, it’s just that
other priorities and their trajectories took hold and proceeded to lay waste to
the promise of those years.
It’s
all gone now, of course. Well, the edifice of il Madineh is still there, but nothing
else. Not that vitality, not that Amman, not that Jordan, not that future as we
imagined it. So, yes, History, alas, is as unkind as it deserves to be. Recently,
on the hunt for photographs of the old hangout, I came across this
cautionary note on one of the tourist websites:
This complex
in northern Amman has an Olympic-sized pool…Note that women may feel
uncomfortable swimming here…
I
suppose that’s why those times have often come back to me. I think of them as
the last installment of a century pockmarked with wrong turns, smothered
opportunities and blithe disregard for the terrible consequences of terrible
decisions taken in every corner of the Middle East.
I
often say that a chronology of postcards is all it takes to grasp the
devastation wrought by decades of Arab misconduct and mismanagement. Il Madineh is one such postcard.
****
I
hoard other precious relics from the 1970s. I remember Sah al Nawm, a brilliant
satire of Kafkaesque Arab systems confounding the hell out of their subjects. I
remember as well Martin Smith’s The World at War, still a documentary like no
other on the Second War. I remember Hotel Philadelphia, a landmark
erased for no good reason at all. The ease with which we walked in and out of Cinema Khayyam and Bassman downtown. Aqaba, a small, bare beachfront. The best
moments were those a friend of mine and I stole in my older brother’s glassed
balcony, listening to Santana’s Black
Magic Woman and Otis Reading’s I’ve
Been Loving You Too Long, all while Bruce Lee stared down at us, chest bare
and chiseled.
Forty
years on, among the flood of images of war, from everywhere, on every
continent, the photo hovering above this post still haunts me. Perhaps because
it could have been me. Or because it evoked horrors not my own but still
mine to mourn. That it appeared on the screen to Carl Davis’ powerful musical interpretation of the meaning
of world war must have helped keep it dramatic and close.
I
recall that the most affecting moments in the 26 episodes were the private
diaries and letters to loved ones that betrayed the true sense of human loss—prose
distilling meaning from mindless bloodshed. Now, we spectate, minute-by-minute,
the pain unleashed by this century’s round of wrath and loathing. You first
force yourself to keep watching and reading because your future literally
depends on it. But the mind numbing noise and rush of visuals—a ton of photos,
a ton of articles and experts with a ton of opinions—obscure what is
actually a fathomable if unruly narrative.
So,
I decided perhaps it’s time for some quietude; time to search much closer to
home, where life is at its dearest and most personal, for humanity and context.
And wouldn’t you know it, the first fragment to appear to my mind’s eye was il
Madineh.
Farewell
for now. And thank you for lending an ear throughout the past nine years.